The ‘official’ calendar of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture for Fall 2017 has 35 presentations, the most it has had for a while and an indication that demand and interest for haute couture remains stronger than ever.

In fact, the first day of the five-day event (Sunday) used to only have a presentation by Atelier Versace. This time around, there will be 11 presentations, with the five new guest members (A.F. Vandevorst, Azzaro, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Ronald van der Kemp) all opting to show their collections on Sunday July 2 so as not to compete for attention with the more established presentations.

The established calendar continues with Schiaparelli, Dior and Ralph and Russo on Monday, Chanel and Armani Prive on Tuesday, and Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino on Wednesday. The last day, Thursday, is always reserved for the presentation of Haute Joaillerie.

Atelier Versace has decided, for the second time in a row, to present its collection “by appointment” only so there will be no catwalk presentation, but instead a display on mannequins which gives clients the opportunity to really see the clothes up close — one insider told Couturenotebook, it was felt the catwalk presentations suffered from its first row of celebrities taking too much attention from the real stars of the show: the clothes.

Returning after several seasons are grand couturiers Adeline Andre, known for her minimalist clothes, and Maurizio Galante, known for his sculptural jackets with elaborate pleating and folding, as well as foreign guest, Fendi.

In pararallel do this 32 official presentations will be numerous other presentations by well-established couturiers not recognized by the Chambre yet, such as Rami al Ali and Yanina.