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Spring 2020 Haute Couture: Stephane Rolland's Moonrise

French couturier Stephane Rolland found inspiration in the circle, symbol of eternity and harmony.

The collection opens on a big coat of gazar, like a middle eastern prince’s, worn on an evening pyjama in ivory crepe. Then steps forward a half-poncho made of concentric circles. Later on, a spheric jumpsuit in grainy crepe with silver embroideries transcribes with each step, every shift of the body.

The flow is yet again architectural, driven and spectacular. A white jersey sheath dress blooms out of a bouquet of half circles on the ankles, skirts are draped in loops and reveal a hip or a leg, all the way to the waist. The gowns and jackets’ shoulder lines are squared and the lapels, circular.

The style is minimal but strong. Rolland for this summer 2020 goes to the essential and affirms his gesture. A silver bustier is holding a cage of gigantic orchids made of black and white gazar, an other is entirely covered with topaz or yet, circled by a sculpture of silver and smoked crystals or embroidered with feathers on a big transparent gauze skirt.

The allure is soft, milky, cloudy. The aspect remains light, floating, like the sculptures of white sequins embellishing a bust or black Samothrace’s like wings on the hips of a bustier dress in nude iridescent chiffon. The colors are fundamental. Black, white, cream … but punctuated with browns, bougainvillea pink and Klein blue.

Metallic embroideries made of silver mirrors, crystals and chrome spheres are shimmering but with the sole purpose of emphasising a curve or finish a movement.